A crowd can be
a crush, a hassle, a bustle. Someone else’s crowd can be all too much. It can
be stuck in traffic, no place to sit. Unknown bodies pressing in and
stealing all your oxygen.
My life has been
somewhat crowded of late. Throughout the Summer months every room of
our flat has been filled with an ever changing array of bodies as
rabbits friends and relations kipped over. Luckily my time
living in backpackers hostels last year has made me (mostly) much
more tolerant to sharing my living space with an ever changing array
of folks.
Edinburgh itself
is a crowded place in August. The festivals jostle in upon each other
and festival attendees are out on the town en-mass. The city has a
great vibe, there is art, theatre, dance, comedy, Shakespeare, dance,
writing... the list goes on. Whatever flavour excites you there is
probably someone doing a show about it.
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My festival crowd |
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The crowd on The Mound |
You cannot go
anywhere without having a flyer thrust in your face for somebodies
one man- improvised- comic- tragic- dance- choir- circus- lesbian
type show. The spruiking itself is an art – the better you do it
the more chance you have of luring an audience.
It's great –
unless you want a quiet drink or an unobstructed commute from home to
work. This has been my first Edinburgh festival season- and I've
enjoyed it, seen some familiar faces and some new acts. Comedy and
books were my pick this year with a very tasty side of Flamenco
thrown in for variety. It was great, except for when I was trying to
have a quiet drink and inching through crowds in order to get home
from work.
Getting away from
the flat and Edinburgh for a week in Istanbul was spectacular, warm,
invigorating, but still crowded.
For a start unlike
the last time I flew into Istanbul- when I was accompanied by nothing
but the memory of friends recently made and left behind- this time I
travelled with the boyfriend, my mother and her partner. Quite an
intense crowd indeed!
Funny thing I
re-discovered when we arrived in Istanbul - the overwhelming
crowds mobbing Edinburgh are just a regular Thursday nights promenade
down Istikal Street. Re-living the bustle of Istikal with the four of
us walking at different paces and getting distracted by different
things added a whole other dimension to the crowd. Last time I
thought I was lost, this time we had to work on not losing
our crowd amongst the crowd.
Everywhere we went, whether it was hanging out at the base of Galata Tower, catching the
ferry over to the Princes' Islands, or hunting for a bargain at The
Grand Bazaar the the crowds made Edinburgh festival time look tame.
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Rover mum at the Grand Bazaar |
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Rover and mum on packed Princes' Island ferry |
Even the usually
solitary occupation of going fishing is done en-mass in Istanbul. In
the city lapped every which way by the Bosphorus you might think a
solitary fishing position would be possible. But anywhere that you
could possibly conceive to throw in a fishing line there would be
one. Not that anyone seems to mind, the fishermen- and an occasional
fisher-woman were quite happy combining fishing and socialising.
|
Fisher folk on Galata Bridge |
Most cities,
viewed from afar are a mass of crowded buildings. Sprawling as
Istanbul does along the Bosphorus if you take a ferry you get a very
clear picture of just how big and crowded Istanbul is. The Princes
Islands are about 90 minutes away by ferry- and all the way there the
spectre of the city follows you. The horizon never clears of
buildings crammed in together.
|
Istanbul viewed from Heybeliada |
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Istanbul - European side looking towards the Asian shore |
A crowd allows for
one of my favourite activities- crowd gazing- you pick a spot and sit
and watch the world go by. It is a great way to experience a place,
peoples similarities and their differences. One of the things I found
myself watching out for on this trip was the way different women
dressed and held themselves. The endlessly referred to melting pot
of Istanbul gives you plenty of contrasts – singlet wearing hippy
girls, hair dread-locked, eyebrows pierced bump along beside demurely
dressed brightly head-scarved women, who chat with girlfriends and
sisters enveloped in black- whose kholed eyes are the only fragment
to reveal what lies beneath.
Crowd watching on
a ferry trip my mother and I observed a family playing charades.
Younger brother and sister (too young yet for a head scarf) acted
while a black burqa-ed woman guessed at their clues.
At the airport the
Saudi men were crowded by their wives, what must that be like?
Having your own
crowd means you can go for a swim and there is someone to watch your
bag and someone to notice if you float away. Unlike my solitary swims
last time I was in Turkey this trip allowed for coasteering with a
buddy.
A crowd can
mean company, familiar faces gathered in a room or on a boat. It can
be a party, someone to chat to about your days adventuring, someone
to dance with, share a beer with. A crowd can be your crowd.